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    • There are many products named “Gurkha” in ENGINEERED GARMENTS’ collections. Since the word “Ghurka” refers Nepalese mountain tribe soldiers who had served for the British army, most of those products are inspired by their uniforms or military equipments. According to the designer, Daiki Suzuki, however, all the military-like items in the brand bear the term. For example, Ghurka shorts by EG are completely different in the details from the original ones that are normally high-waisted with a double-strapped waistband as well as pleated A-lined silhouette.
      The design of the Ghurka jacket shown here is based on a khaki uniform of the British forces. Along with typical features of a military jacket such as pleated front pockets, accordion-type side pockets and a waistband, this jacket has accordion pockets also on the chest to give a fresh, mixed look. Some of the details of the jacket such as surgeon’s cuffs, side vents and a notched lapel are just like tailored one. The stitch width is slightly narrower than the standard for American workwears (a quarter inch) to reduce sweetness from the design, and the gorge which is set highest among all other jackets EG has ever made adds extra sharpness to the item. Although the pockets’ openings are designed a little slanted inward, it is not to improve its functionality, but to boost its toughness in design. Since most of EG outers feature this slanted pocket, it now becomes one of the signatures to show the brand’s identity.
     
    • The designer chose rough, wrinkled French Twill for the jacket, as it is close to Bush Poplin, his ideal fabric, which was invented by WILLIS & GEIGER. The material is dense and firm just like Bush Poplin, but lighter and softer as you actually wear the jacket. With the silky touch fabric, the piece is perfect for summer. The fabric looks beautiful in olive and navy colors as well as khaki. Since there are many products made with the same material such as trousers, shorts or Thai pants, you can enjoy setting those up with the jacket.
     
    • Fisherman pants were originally worn by Thai fishermen and also called Thai pants. In Thailand, it is called Sabay pants (Sabay means “comfortable” in Thai) and has been loved by the local people as a traditional folk costume. “I once saw a picture of Gurkha or Indian soldiers matching Thai pants with neatly-worn military uniforms. I then instantly thought that the style was extremely offbeat. For me, it was like matching black jeans with a school uniform jacket. It was really shocking,” told Daiki Suzuki, a man who designed the pants. He remembered the style as he was trying to add exotic mood to this season’s collection titled “Travel & Safari.”
      Thai pants are so well-reasoned and high-quality product with the signature rectilinear pattern to make maximum use of its fabric that the EG version of those has almost same design as the ones sold at local souvenir shops. However, well-selected fabric and heightened details differentiate the item from others. Using darkened paisley broadcloth for its fabric, the pants are thin and light to make you more comfortable even in the summertime. The designer decided to sew the product with lapped seams which are normally used for jeans and a work shirt, but what he wanted to do was not to make it tough. He aimed to cause “puckering” on the fabric, adding a well-worn feeling. Although traditional Thai pants don’t have any pockets, there are some on the EG version as Suzuki always put one for men's pants.
    • In the EG look book, Thai pants are coordinated with other exotic items for a relaxing style or used to soften a firm styling with a tie and Andover jacket. According to Suzuki, Thai pants are not just comfortable clothing but also a utility product which can be matched up with various styles. “When I go to a party in Thai pants mixing with a jacket, tie and slip-on shoes, it was really fun to see people’s reaction to my style. For every EG collection, I try to design a maverick item that will make you enjoy coordinating clothes more, though I’m not sure whether it can be salable. Thai pants are definitely such an item for this season’s collection.”
     
     
    • NEPENTHES’ love of shoes has been exceptional since the brand established. You can feel it as you see the huge shoes section which is located at the back of the store and its extraordinary collection of shoes. The team has found many skillful shoe makers around the world and collaborated with them to create special shoes. Dress shoes, work boots, Cowboy boots, mocs, sneakers and sandals… Although the shoes the brand has made with such collaborations are various and genreless, there is one thing in common – those are all special products that can be created only by NEPENTHES. Above all of those shoes, wingtips mean so much for the brand. “Wingtips are most powerful, lovable and beautiful among all the shoe garnishes,” says Keizo Shimizu, the CEO of NEPENTHES. “I think there is nothing like the type of shoes and I’m always challenging to play with the gold standard.”
      And a notable made-in-England pair was newly added for this season. Spending one and half year to complete the project, the team chose Shell Cordovan from Horween Leather Company, a Chicago based prestigious tanner in business for over 100 years, for the material and ordered ALFRED SARGENT, a shoemaker in Northampton known as one of the most famous places for shoemaking, to make this challenging wingtips.
    • As Shimizu noted that a pair of Tyrolean shoes was in his mind when designing, the shape and last of the shoes are just impressive with higher toe-springs. To realize climbing-boots-quality sturdiness, the wingtips feature a Norwegian Welt construction which only ALFRED SARGENT can offer among shoemakers in Northampton, and Vibram’s high-grip rugged soles which are perfect for rough roads. Requiring extra time and effort to be produced, the rare, prestigious leather gives a dull but deep luster on the upper part of the shoes and exerts a strong presence despite the solid design. The wingtips are definitely a masterpiece that combines American and English craftsmanship brilliantly. There is also a pair of penny loafers designed based on the same idea. You may also be excited to see how the burgundy on Horween Shell Cordovan alters the shade as you wear it in a long while.
     
    • Coveralls are one of the standard items of NEEDLES which are designed for every collection. Keizo Shimizu, the designer of the brand, also wears it mundanely. According to him, lengths of work jackets were mostly short like LEE’s 91-B when he was young. Instead of those jackets, Shimizu always chose coveralls though it was not popular among Japanese at that time as it was believed that the item didn’t fit their body type. Shimizu was, however, a comparatively sturdily-built man. “I was making a good collection of coveralls, and most of those were vintage clothes,” says the designer. “After trying on so many of those from various brands and periods, I finally realized that the ones made by PAY DAY in the 60s were the best.”
      Raglan sleeves, round-shaped pockets, a flapped pocket only on the right chest – NEEDLES coveralls inherit some details seen on workwears from the 60s. But the items will never be a reproduction of pieces made in the past, because the brand always arranges the original product in a vibrant way and transform it into a brand-new item. For example, recent NEEDLES coveralls have Chinese-style buttons in front and a mandarin collar, adding an exotic touch in its details. This innovative design idea totally refined the traditional workwear. For this season’s collection, Shimizu removed the collar completely as well as cutting the sleeve hems and, roughly overcasting those edges. “There were many vintage clothes which I liked the texture but didn’t think it fitted me well. In that case, I used to remake those.
    • I cut a shirt if I thought it was too long and I removed a collar if it bothered me. So what I did for this season’s coverall is quite a familiar thing to me. I have designed various items without collars for the past NEEDLES collections, and I think it influenced the design of this coverall.”
      The cotton linen fabric used for this coverall is light, firm and shiny with dry texture, as Shimizu designed it based on an assumption to wear roughly on a T-shirt. By using a yarn which shrinks by heating, the stitches caused a puckering and the texture makes the product even more adorable. The exclusively-made changeable button has a clip-like wiry piece in the back. The edge of the piece is bent by hand because it makes a remove-and-replace operation of a button easier than a machine-made piece. To make the product a little old-fashioned, the creative team tuned the sewing machine to make the overcasting stitches on collar and sleeves 8mm-wide although the standard width is 6mm. It is a little thing, but a long succession of such extra efforts extra efforts makes the product more expressive and comfortable.
     
    • Carmel-by-the-Sea, an American city which has attracted numerous artists and poets, is located on the West Coast, about 120 miles south of San Francisco. The city has had some mayors who were actors, poets or writers, including actor Clint Eastwood who ran the city hall from 1986 to 1988. Since garish neon signs and fast-food store openings are regulated in the area, the city keeps its traditional scenery without falling into excessive commercialism.
      There is a jacket named after such a beautiful city in the SOUTH2 WEST8 collection. The piece, Carmel jacket, had been designed every season by the brand since the time of founding. It is originally made as a modern version of a classical yacht parka which had been made by various fashion labels such as Bert Pulitzer, an American high-end outdoor clothing brand which once dominated the scene in the East Coast from the 70s to 80s. The latest model is made with 60/40 Cloth, a masterpiece of the weather resistant fabric which has been used even after the emergences of high-tech materials. The fabric is a combination of 60% cotton and 40% nylon, using the cotton for its weft yarn and the nylon for its warp yarn. As the cotton swells on exposure to water and increases in density, helping to further repel water and wind. Being lighter and softer than 100% cotton fabric and more durable than 100% nylon fabric, th
     
    • e texture of the fabric becomes more tasteful as you continually wear it.The hood is foldable into the signature collar and the front can be opened by a plastic zipper, keeping water and wind out with the snap-buttoned fly. There are seven pockets on the jacket, including the flapped slant pockets on the chest which are good to put your mobile phone. Shimizu modernized a horizontal pocket which you can often see on vintage yacht parkas to place a compass or sunglasses into an accent of the design. There is a zipped poacher’s pocket at the back, as well as a zip-up flapped pocket inside. When the weather is chilly, you can warm your hands in the flapped side pockets on the waist. The raglan sleeves are suitable for activities and mobile. With a loose body and short length, the jacket shapes a neat A-lined silhouette. For this season, the lining is made with polyester mesh fabric, although 60/40 Cloth had been used for the part until then. Also making the body slightly thinner, the jacket becomes lighter and more comfortable to wear. The brand’s masterpiece which had not been remodeled because of its quality now makes a great change as a Spring/Summer version. It would be great news for its fans.
     
    • Sunforger Cloth is an outdoor fabric made in the U.S. which has been used for boat coverings or awnings. The high density cotton fabric with moisture-prevention and mildew-resistant processes has an excellent water-repellent effect as well as incredible durability. Although the fabric is still used for various ways, it was originally developed before the invention of nylon and its low-tech, solid look adds a classical mood to the products. The Sunforger bag line of SOUTH2 WEST8 was born after the team had found such an adorable material. 18 different bags have been designed so far and all of those became masterpieces of the brand, keeping enjoying high popularity.
      A simple grocery tote bag was newly added to the line in this season. Containing handles and a shoulder strap, the bag allows you to use it in multiple ways. As it is so large in capacity that A4 size documents and magazines are easily placed, you can use it not just for shopping, but also as an everyday bag. Having a snap button as a closure, the tote has a useful mini pocket inside to store small things. The edge of the handle is not sewn on purpose to enjoy how the yarn becomes protruded as you heavily use it, while the olive drab colored bar-tack accentuates the “Sun Tan,” or deep tan colored, Sunforger Cloth.The printed words on the bag are taken from books and essays by Kazuhiro Serizawa, a pioneer of outdoor activities
    • and cultures in Japan. SOUTH2 WEST8 translated his words into English, making its own interpretation of those. Henry David Thoreau, the author of “Walden: or, the Life in the Wood,” started a self-contained living in pursuit of Voluntary Simplicity. And Serizawa allegedly told that he, as a person living in the modern society, thought his own “Voluntary Simplicity” was to use quality things for a long spell with deep affection. There are two other versions of the bag with the words that SOUTH2 WEST8 has deeply inspired, including the one with “Armchair” and “Not a Sport” as well as the “Fish & Flies” model on which illustrations of trout, char and fishing flies are printed.
     
    • It looks extremely simple, but clearly conspicuous. Being changed its details and materials to match each season’s trend, NEEDLES’ Miles jacket has been made for every collection since the brand released it as a key item for its debut season. As NEEDLES is, according to Keizo Shimizu, “a brand producing simple outfits,” a Miles jacket is definitely the item that exemplifies the concept. Its greatest characteristic that creates a unique atmosphere is the unconstructed body. Having seams only on the sides, it wraps around your body like a mantle and makes a natural silhouette. The ingenious design idea was come from a photo of Miles Davis, a legendary trumpeter and king of Jazz, who is also the origin of the item’s name. “There is a photo of him on Esquire issued around 1962 and he wore an interesting suite there. It was with very low shoulders and sloppy design just like Japanese ‘Com-Pora’ suite (an iridescent, one-button suite with a narrow lapel and a boxy line). According to the magazine, it was supposed to be made-to-order and created from a sheet of cloth. I thought it really unique and decided to make it by myself.”
      Shimizu didn’t design any chest pockets for his Miles jacket to make it as simple as possible. He even eliminated gorge lines from this season’s model to sophisticate the style. The natural unpadded shoulders of this item are made slightly shaper than other jackets of the brand, creating
     
    • a relaxing A-line silhouette with its loose-fitting body. The single button positioned a little higher is also a key to form a beautiful drape. Since the pattern of the jacket is made fully from a sheet of double-width cloth (ca. 150cm wide), the fabric of the front body is cut on the bias while the fabric for the back panel is cut straight. So, with this exceptional item, you can enjoy the fabric in two different ways.Having a slick and shiny Polyester-Rayon blend material for its main fabric, Spring/Summer 2015 version of the jacket is even smoother to touch and more glamorous to look as you wear and give a 3D appearance to it. Although the details, design and structure of the product is quite simple, it has truly sexy and elegant look. So, it can be said that the jacket is full of NEEDLES-ism. There are also slim-fitted tapered trousers made of the same cloth in this season’s collection, which offers you gorgeous set-up style.